Visas, borders and practical travel in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos
Countries · Laos
Laos: slow roads and the Mekong
Laos rewards time and punishes rushing. Roads through the north are slow, the e-visa only works if you fly or come from Thailand or China, and payments must be in kip. For travellers who accept those terms, it is the quietest of the three.
Contents
At a glance
- Capital
- Vientiane
- Nights
- 8–14
- Entry
- E-visa by air, other visas by land
- Currency
- Kip only
- Main airports
- Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Pakse
- Dry season
- November to April
What Laos is like to travel on your own
Laos is landlocked, mountainous in the north and shaped by the Mekong in the south. Luang Prabang, the old royal town at the meeting of the Mekong and the Nam Khan, is where most trips start. Vientiane, the capital, is a short flight or a railway journey to the south. Further south, Pakse is the base for the Bolaven Plateau and the river islands of Si Phan Don, the Four Thousand Islands, near the Cambodian border.
The pace is slower than in Vietnam or Cambodia. Roads between the northern towns wind through mountains, and the UK Foreign Office warns that they are in poor condition and much riskier after dark. River travel on the Mekong is part of the appeal and carries its own warning about currents and hidden obstacles. Medical care outside Vientiane is basic, and evacuation is difficult and very expensive, so insurance matters more here than in the neighbours.
Money is the other adjustment. The law requires payment in kip, prices may not be shown in foreign currency, and foreign money can only be used through cards or QR. Exchange at banks or licensed counters.
Sources: UK Foreign Office — Laos safety and security; UK Foreign Office — Laos health; Laotian Times — amended Law on Foreign Currency Management; Laotian Times — tourism ministry notice on currency use · last checked .
How many nights
As a planning estimate, eight nights is enough for Luang Prabang and Vientiane with a day or two around each. Fourteen nights adds the south: Pakse, the Bolaven Plateau and the Four Thousand Islands, which is also the natural exit to Cambodia. Under six nights, stay in Luang Prabang and fly in and out; the rest of the country is too slow to sample in a few days.
Laos is a common second country after northern Vietnam. A flight from Hanoi to Luang Prabang avoids the slow mountain crossings and lets you use the Lao e-visa, which is accepted at Luang Prabang airport.
When to go
November to February is the cool dry season, with highs around 28°C in Luang Prabang and 31 to 32°C in Vientiane, and the most comfortable time for travel. March and April are hot, with Vientiane reaching 38°C and above, and from mid-February to late April or early May field burning fills the northern valleys with smoke. The rains run from May to October and peak in August.
November and December are also the months when the rivers are high enough for comfortable boat travel. The UK Foreign Office notes that dengue cases rise in the rainy season and that landslides in the rains can expose unexploded ordnance.
Sources: Travelfish — Laos weather (independent guide); UK Foreign Office — Laos health; UK Foreign Office — Laos safety and security · last checked .
Getting in
By air, the e-visa and visa on arrival are both available at Wattay in Vientiane, Luang Prabang and Pakse. Air arrivals complete the online arrival form within three days before landing. The tourist stay is 30 days, and it can be extended twice.
By land from Vietnam or Cambodia, the Lao e-visa is not accepted. Lao Bao to Dansavanh is the one Vietnam crossing currently reported to issue a visa on arrival, and Trapeang Kriel to Nong Nok Khiene from Cambodia issues one too. For any other Vietnam crossing, get a visa from a Lao embassy first. Details are on the Laos visa page and in the border tables.
Sources: Lao eVisa official portal — ports of entry; UK Foreign Office — Laos entry requirements; Travelfish — Laos visas and border crossings (independent guide) · last checked .
Fixed costs we can source
| Item | Cost | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Visa on arrival | About USD 35 to 50 | Depends on nationality; paid in US dollars |
| E-visa | See the portal fee calculator | Not readable when we checked |
| Overstay beyond 90 days without extension | Equivalent of USD 2,000 in kip | Plus deportation and a ban |
We do not publish hotel, food or transport prices for Laos. Quoted prices age quickly and we have not checked them against a source we would cite. Check before you travel.
Sources: Travelfish — Laos visas and border crossings (independent guide); Lao eVisa official portal — FAQ; UK Foreign Office — Laos entry requirements · last checked .
Pictures
When to leave Laos out
- If your trip is under a week and also includes Vietnam or Cambodia.
- If you plan to arrive overland from Vietnam and cannot get a Lao visa beforehand.
- In March and April if you have asthma or sensitive eyes; the smoke season is real.
- If you need reliable access to hospital care throughout the trip.
Common questions
Questions readers ask
Can I enter Laos from Vietnam on an e-visa?
Not by land. The Lao e-visa is accepted only at three airports and at crossings from Thailand and China. Fly from Hanoi to Luang Prabang or Vientiane if you want to use it.
Can I pay in dollars or baht in Laos?
Not in cash for everyday purchases. Payments must be in kip; foreign currency can be used through card or QR.
When is the smoke season?
From mid-February to late April or early May, mostly in the north.
How long can I stay?
Thirty days on a tourist visa, extendable twice inside Laos for up to 60 more days.
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